Nooryan Bahari, Rum Handayani, Ratna Endah Santoso, Nadia Sigi Prameswari
The environmental pollution due to synthetic textile dye waste has induced an increase in the use of natural dyes. In general, the fixation process using alum, lime and tunjung. The novelty of this research is to make bone ash as an initial mordant and fixator. The CaO in bone ash and its absorbent potential makes it worth testing as a pre-mordant and fixator for cotton and silk fibers using natural dyes. This study aimed to determine the effect of bone ash as a mordant and fixator on the immersion of natural dyes from chromolaena, mango leaves and garlic skin. The test stages include: preparation, extraction, fixation and pelorodan. The resulting colour tends not to change. However, the endurance level of the fabric towards washing, sweat, light and rubbing has improved (grades 4-5). It has been proven that bone ash, which is chemically composed of several metal oxides, (CaO) is quite similar to lime (CaCO3), having a high pH (alkaline) level. Therefore, it can serve as an alternative fixator with sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) as the final mordant. The results showed that cow bone ash has a high potential of being used as a pre-mordant material and fixator in the colouring processes of cotton and silk fabrics. © 2020 Slovak University of Technology in Bratislava. All rights reserved.
Study Program of Fine Art, Faculty of Art and Design, Sebelas Maret University, Jl. Ir. Sutami 36 A, Surakarta, 57216, Indonesia; Study Program of Textile Craft, Faculty of Art and Design, Sebelas Maret University, Jl. Ir. Sutami 36 A, Surakarta, 57216, Indonesia; Visual Arts Department, Faculty of Languages and Art, Universitas Negeri Semarang, Jl Sekaran Raya, Gunung Pati, Sekaran, Semarang, 50229, Indonesia